Maybe essentially the most hanging factor about Jean-Manuel Moreau’s operation in Paris is how lengthy it’s been round.
Most outlets we cowl observe their origins again 10 or 12 years. It’s on this interval that shops like Trunk, The Armoury, Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery and lots of different independents have been based. In addition to numerous manufacturers.
Mainly, Jean-Manuel pre-dates #menswear.
He began 18 years in the past, as a made-to-measure shirt operation out of a small showroom. Two years later he added tailoring, working with Orazio Luciano in Naples, changing into one of many first to supply their product.
JM was prescient there too, anticipating by a number of years the Neapolitan vogue. “For some time I used to be the one one providing it in Paris, and it took a variety of clarification,” he says. “The shirt shoulder, the pleats within the prime of the sleeve – most clients hadn’t seen it earlier than.”
He has a equally lengthy relationship with Neapolitan Domenico Mazzarelli for shirts.
At this time, Jean-Manuel has a much bigger operation, in a brand-new store.
He moved in 2019, to a quiet avenue across the nook from Avenue Montaigne. It’s an open, light-filled house, with the again half sectioned off for appointments.
The bigger retailer additionally offers him extra room to exhibit the informal put on he’s more and more been including. There are good long-sleeved polo shirts, sahariana jackets from 100 Fingers, and each ready-made and MTM blousons from Sartoria Melina. Plus the Mazzarelli shirt vary.
My impression has all the time been that Parisian males are much less prone to gown up, or to spend cash on clothes, and Jean-Manuel backs this up. “Individuals nonetheless put on fits for enjoyable, however for enterprise it’s nearly out of date,” he says.
“So we provide an increasing number of choices for carrying good garments casually: a sports activities jacket with chinos, or a polo shirt and safari jacket. There’s nonetheless an actual hole there for high quality, as a result of many males don’t know easy methods to put on this fashion, or the place to get the very best product.”
Jean-Manuel has a very sturdy status for customer support.
I requested a number of buddies in Paris about their impressions or expertise, and the extent of care was talked about again and again.
“He’ll cease at nothing to verify the client is blissful, and takes a real curiosity in everybody,” commented one. “I’ve been shopping for clothes from him for 10 years, and the factor that retains me coming again most is that confidence that he’ll be sure that I get what I need,” stated one other.
The store used to do extra trunk exhibits with visiting artisans (together with Ambrosi), however these have been in the reduction of for that reason: it was too onerous to ensure the product.
Jean-Manuel additionally works in his personal method with Orazio Luciano.
So though Orazio makes up a accomplished go well with in the identical method it will with anybody else, JM makes use of his personal worksop for all alterations. This offers him larger management, in addition to pace.
“I wish to be very concerned within the course of, and that is the one strategy to do it,” he says. “It additionally means I could make small adjustments very simply, just like the sleeve lining or completely different buttons.”
The mannequin Jean-Manuel presents can be barely completely different to straightforward Orazio. It’s longer, extra roomy within the physique, and has a decrease gorge. The buttoning level is a bit decrease, and the quarters slightly open. Basically, it is extra conservative and fewer Neapolitan.
“That began proper at the start, once I wanted one thing that was extra approachable for the French buyer,” he says. “We made it cleaner, maybe extra English. And now it’s our normal – it’s a really particular mannequin that we keep on the Orazio manufacturing facility.”
Buddies in Paris additionally commented on Jean-Manuel’s fashion, which whereas very basic, typically incorporates sturdy color.
He wears numerous royal blue, for instance, and typically paler sneakers. Meaning a number of the equipment within the store, and colors of shirts or sneakers, are a bit shiny for me – however on the identical time, I’d additionally look to him for concepts on easy methods to put on color successfully.
One French reader commented that this sophistication was one thing that significantly set Jean-Manuel aside from the various, cheaper MTM homes which have sprung up in Paris in recent times.
I used to be initially fascinated about Jean-Manuel as a result of the made-to-measure tailoring was beneficial to me.
It is usually fairly accessible to readers, as he travels ceaselessly to Geneva, commonly to New York (5/6 instances a yr) and infrequently to London and Brussels (2/three instances a yr). He has a number of massive shoppers in Africa too.
So once I went to the shop final yr, I commissioned a cream-linen go well with, to interchange the Kent Haste & Lachter one I had made years in the past. Identical linen, only a very completely different fashion and make.
The photographs right here have been taken once I picked up the go well with (after two fittings) in Paris. Beneath is Nicholas, who has been working with Jean-Manuel for over 10 years (and really not too long ago turned a associate within the enterprise).
Protection of the go well with will come later, with a spotlight particularly on reviewing it and evaluating to different made-to-measure.
For the second, I can definitely suggest Jean-Manuel, his store and entire crew to anybody visiting Paris.
I am additionally to see how his providing develops within the coming years, given the extra informal choices he is including. And I am eager to attempt the sneakers of Gian Luca Bocache from Bocache Salvucci Calzolai in Rome (beneath).
Bocache makes bespoke sneakers, visiting the JMM store as soon as a month at the least, in addition to typically travelling with him to New York. The bespoke begins at €2000, and JMM additionally carries some as RTW within the store, made to the identical normal.
Images: Alex Natt @adnatt, or Jean-Manuel Moreau
Many because of Jean-Manuel and the entire crew for his or her hospitality throughout my completely different visits.